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熱愛陌生人的歐洲城市

The European city that loves strangers
熱愛陌生人的歐洲城市

Few cities in the world rival the antiquity of Athens, where people have lived continuously for thousands of years. Athenians created the first forms of democracy, the plays and philosophy that shaped Western civilisation, and the classical buildings that still dot the Acropolis.

世界上很少有城市能在古跡方面與雅典匹敵,這是一座千百年來生生不息的城市。雅典人創造了最早形式的民主、戲劇和哲學,塑造了西方文明,直到今天衛城(Acropolis)仍然被經典建筑所點綴。

Amid the ancient ruins, another survivor of the centuries is the Greek concept of philoxenia – a term that directly translates as ‘love of strangers’, but which locals define more as a warmth that makes foreigners feel immediately welcomed when they come to the capital city. “The people can be very hospitable and friendly,” agreed Julian Williams, who moved from London in 2009.

在眾多歷史久遠的廢墟中,另一個歷經千百年仍然流傳下來的就是希臘詞語"philoxenia"的概念——它可以直接譯為"熱愛陌生人",而當地人則賦予它更多,讓外國人一踏上這座古都的土地,就能感到賓至如歸的熱情。"人們非常熱情好客,"2009年從倫敦移居到此的朱利安·威廉姆斯(Julian Williams)深表贊同。

Though more than 4.5 million people visit the city every year to delve into its past, Athens has plenty in its present to make it worth staying for the longer term.

雖然每年有超過450萬游客前來探究它的過去,但是現在的雅典也有很多令人留戀的地方。

Why do people love it?

人們為什么喜歡它呢?

The always-on atmosphere of Athens attracts Greeks and expats alike. “Athens is a buzzing city,” said Chrissy Manika, an Athens native and blogger at Travel Passionate. “No matter when you go out you will see the cafes and bars filled with people having a good time.” She especially likes wandering the city centre neighbourhood of Plaka, on the north-east side of the Acropolis. “With all the tourists around, it feels like you are on holiday on an island, especially in summer.”

雅典始終不變的氛圍吸引著希臘人和移民者。"雅典是一個喧鬧的城市。"雅典本地人同時也是"激情旅行"(Travel Passionate)的博主克里希·曼尼卡(Chrissy Manika)說道,"無論何時出門,你總能看到人們在咖啡館和酒吧愉快地消遣。"她尤其喜歡在市中心的普拉卡(位于衛城東北邊)周邊散步。"看著周圍的游客,你會感覺自己在一座小島上度假,尤其是夏天的時候。"

With more than 250 days of sunshine annually, that summer can feel endless. “By my American standards, ‘summer’ in Athens lasts from late April to late October,” said Mina Agnos, who opened the Athens office of luxury tour company Travelive in 2008. The weather makes it especially easy to get away to nearby islands for weekend getaways. Williams recommends Hydra (35 nautical miles to the south), where cars are prohibited and people get around the island by riding donkeys and mules or leisurely walking its idyllic city streets, which mostly lack street signs. Though long popular with celebrities and artists, the island retains its laid-back lifestyle with plentiful cafes and contained crowds, thanks to the limited number of hotels. 紐約時報中英文網 http://www.gwbyzx.live

擁有年均超過250天光照的氣候讓人感覺似乎一直都是夏天。"按照我的美國標準,雅典的'夏天'從四月底一直持續到10月底,"米娜·艾格諾斯(Mina Agnos)說道,她在2008年開辦了雅典豪華旅游公司"Travelive"。這里的天氣尤其適合在周末忙里偷閑,去周邊的小島小住幾天。威廉姆斯推薦九頭蛇島(往南35海里),那里禁止汽車通行,人們騎著驢和騾子在島上觀光,或者悠閑地在田園般的城市街道里散步,當然大部分街道都沒有路標。盡管長久以來受到名人和藝術家的青睞,但是島上仍然保留著慵懶的生活方式,眾多的咖啡館和從容的人群,而這要歸功于有限數量的旅館。

The mountains and forest are also within easy reach. “If you want to break out of the city, you can do so fairly easily and feel like you’re a million miles [away],” Williams said. “One of my regular places to go is Mount Hymettus [5-6km from the city centre], which is ideal if you have a dog, and is also great for biking.”

山脈和森林同樣觸手可及。"如果你想逃離城市生活,很輕松就能辦到,而且就像在天涯海角一般。"威廉姆斯說道,"我常去的地方是伊米托斯山(Mount Hymettus,位于雅典東南方向18公里),如果遛狗的話會非常合適,當然騎行也很棒。"

What's it like to live there?

在這里生活的感受如何呢?

Despite living in an ancient city, residents never get sick of the views. “Driving into the city and seeing the Acropolis or the Temple of Zeus takes my breath away,” Agnos said. “At every turn, there is a beautiful reminder of the ancient past of this city. It is a lovely reminder of our limited time and that we should make the best of it.”

雖然生活在一座古老的城市,但是它的風景百看不厭。"開車到城里去參觀衛城或宙斯神廟(Temple of Zeus)總是讓我激動不已。"艾格諾斯說道,"每次前來,都會感受到來自城市輝煌過往的提醒。這種提醒讓我們感受到時間的流逝,告誡我們應當利用好每分每秒。"

紐約時報中英文網 www.gwbyzx.live

Among the antiquities, nearby neighbourhoods give a glimpse into the city’s contemporary culture. Just steps from the Acropolis, Koukaki was recently ranked as the city’s newest cool neighbourhood for its new National Museum of Contemporary Art, trendy restaurants and cosy cafes. For a more avant-garde feel, Williams recommends the neighbourhood of Exarcheia, 1km north-east of the city centre.”

在眾多古跡之中,周邊的風景可以令人窺見城市的當代文化。距衛城一步之隔的科隆納(Koukaki),其由于擁有新建的當代藝術國家博物館(National Museum of Contemporary Art)、潮流的餐館和愜意的咖啡館而最新成為了城市最吸引人的地方。如果想要獲得更加前衛的體驗,那么威廉姆斯推薦位于市中心東北1公里遠的哈瑞亞區(Exarcheia)。"

Locals also have their own secrets that tourists often miss while they’re museum-hopping. “Some of the best food is to be had in the local central market in downtown Athens,” said Katilena Alpe, who moved from London nine years ago. “And not many know that Athens has a wine route and the vineyards around the capital produce some great wines.”

當地居民還有一些秘密是忙于餐館博物館的游客經常錯過的。"一些最美味的食物都藏在雅典市區的當地中心市場里。"9年前從倫敦搬來的卡迪麗娜·阿爾普(Katilena Alpe)說道,"很多人都不知道雅典有一條紅酒之路,附近的葡萄園出產著非常棒的紅酒。"

What else do I need to know?

還有什么需要了解的呢?

As one of the countries hit hardest by the decade’s economic strife, Greece is still a hard place to find a job, and unemployment in Athens remains high. Locals lament the time-consuming and inefficient government bureaucracy, which can cause challenges for newcomers trying to get or start a job.

作為遭受經濟危機打擊最為嚴重的國家之一,在希臘仍然很難找到工作,雅典的失業率也居高不下。當地人哀嘆政府部門的繁瑣和低效,導致新來者在尋找工作或創業時困難重重。

“Tax paperwork and Greek bureaucracy requires translation so it’s valuable having a friend who can help you navigate the bureaucratic maze to get setup,” Williams said.

"稅務文件和希臘當局需要翻譯,因此最好有一位可以幫助你游走于政府迷宮之中的朋友,"威廉姆斯說道。

And while salaries are lower here in general, Athens has one of Europe’s lowest costs of living, with expenses averaging nearly 50% less than London, according to price compare site Expatistan.com.

而根據價格對比網站"Expatistan.com"的數據,盡管這里的一般工資水平較低,但是雅典也是歐洲生活成本最低的城市之一,平均生活成本不到倫敦的50%。

Expats also appreciate that most Athenians speak very good English – though attempting a little Greek goes a long way. “Even if you are horrible at it, the effort is really appreciated,” Agnos said.

令移居者感到欣慰的另一點是大多數雅典人的英語都很好——雖然學習希臘語的道路會非常艱辛。"即使你說的很差,你的努力也值得贊賞,"艾格諾斯說道。

Even with its challenges, locals recommend never losing sight of the awe of Athens. “I find that the happiest expats are the ones that act like tourists,” said Agnos. “They are visiting museums or hopping ferries to islands on the weekends, sampling lots of local dining spots, and getting to know the locals.”

雖然挑戰頗多,但是當地人建議永遠不要失去對雅典的敬畏。"我發現最幸福的移居者就是那些像游客一樣的人。"艾格諾斯說道,"他們周末去參觀博物館或者乘坐渡輪到小島上,嘗試當地的餐飲,結識當地人。"

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