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泰晤士河心島上的“奇人”

A strange life on London's River Thames
泰晤士河心島上的“奇人”

I arrived at a pea-green footbridge to nowhere. From my vantage point on the towpath, the bridge’s brushed-steel curves rose and dipped over the river before disappearing into a thick cluster of privet. I watched passersby stroll over. Most peeped and retreated. The more brazen continued, swallowed by the hedges into one of London’s most fascinating enclaves.

我來到了淺綠色的人行步橋。從我所在之處望去,人行步橋的鋼制結構彎曲上揚越過河之后降入消失在茂密的水蠟樹叢中。我注視著來來往往的行人。大多數人遠遠瞥了一眼,便退縮而去。有些勇敢的人繼續前行,便會發現樹籬掩蓋的竟是倫敦最引人入勝的世外桃源之一。

This is Eel Pie Island, one of around 180 river islets – known as ‘eyots’ or ‘aits’  – on the Thames, born of the river’s meandering, 184-mile path from the Cotswold hills to the North Sea.

這就是Eel Pie島,泰晤士河上約有180個河流小島,又稱"河州"或"河中島",該島是其中之一。

Mudbanks like Chiswick Eyot, a thickly-wooded nature reserve populated by herons and Canada geese, were sculpted on the river’s route. At high tide the tiny piece of land is swallowed whole, just a few lone branches eerily piercing the surface.

泰晤士河起源于科茨沃爾德(Cotswold)丘陵,蜿蜒184英里長,最終流入北海,河道所經之處形成泥灘,奇西克河洲(Chiswick Eyot)是樹木茂密的自然保護區,棲息著大量的蒼鷺和加拿大鵝。漲潮時,這片狹小之地會被完全吞沒,只剩寥寥無幾的樹枝從表面探出腦袋。

Eel Pie Island, near Twickenham, was carved as the river took a detour and forged a parallel path, slicing it from the mainland. Since the 17th Century, when according to a 1635 map there was a bowling alley on the island, it has been a haven for hedonists, music lovers and philanderers.

Eel Pie島位于特威克納姆(Twickenham)附近,因河流繞道形成兩道平行支流,將這塊地方與其他陸地分離開來,由此誕生河心島。十七世紀的地圖就記載了Eel Pie島的位置,后來發展成為享樂主義者、音樂愛好者和慈善家的天堂。

Its seclusion – it could only be reached by boat until the footbridge was erected in 1957 – made it a dream for extra-marital affairs. Local stories say that wealthy men would bribe the ferryman not to let their wives across so they could canoodle with their mistresses undisturbed.

小島與世隔絕——直到1957年人行步橋建成之前,只能坐船抵達——因此,成為發展婚外情的理想之地。據當地傳言,有錢人為了與情婦尋歡作樂,免于打擾,通常賄賂船夫,阻止太太們乘船渡河。

The island is named for the eel pies sold at its 19th-Century hotel; rarely spotted now, the slippery, snake-like fish were once abundant in this part of the Thames. The inn burned down in a mysterious 1971 fire, but the decades of entertainment, from ballroom dancing and beatnik jazz to early performances by the Rolling Stones and Rod Stewart, are still spoken about in reverential tones.

該島得名于19世紀島上旅館出售的鰻魚餡餅。當時,泰晤士河這一帶十分盛產鰻魚,其身體滑溜、形狀如蛇,如今已經非常少見。1971年發生了一場神秘火災,燒毀了旅館,但是交際舞、爵士樂以及滾石樂隊和洛德·斯圖爾特(Rod Stewart)的早期表演等數十年發生在這里的娛樂活動仍然被人傳誦。

Trevor Baylis frequented the hotel as a teenager, lured from his home in Kilburn in north-west London by “pretty girls and jazz music”. Smitten by the spit of land, the inventor built a home here in 1971.

特雷弗·貝利斯(Trevor Baylis)年輕時是這家旅館的常客,他家位于倫敦西北部的基爾伯恩(Kilburn),難以抵擋"美女與爵士樂"的誘惑經常在這里出入。1971年,這位發明家深深愛上了這片土地,于是在這里安家。

The community grew from “just a few huts” to around 50 homes with old hippies, young families and people “with a special kind of spirit”.

一開始,整個社區只有"幾間小屋",后來慢慢多至50戶人家,有年老的嬉皮士,年輕夫婦以及"奇人異士"。

“We were a family then, and we’re a family now,” Baylis said.

"不論是當時還是現在,我們一直都像一家人一樣,"貝利斯說道。

The footbridge led onto a narrow, shaded footpath, marked by a ‘Private Island’ sign. I followed it past tumbledown cottages to a screeching, spitting, working boatyard, emerging among a cluster of ramshackle artists’ studios. The walkways were cluttered with pots, wrought-iron tables and empty Champagne bottles stuffed with candles. A skeleton’s spindly legs dangled from a birdcage overheard; dressmakers’ dummies were topped with plant-pot heads.

人行步橋的另一端通向一條狹窄的林蔭小路,路牌上寫著"私人島嶼"。沿著小路,穿過搖搖欲墜的村舍,呈現在我眼前的是一個船塢。船塢里聲音嘈雜,水花四濺,一片繁忙熱鬧的景象。四周圍聳立著一片藝術家工作室,破敗不堪。走道上堆滿了壇壇罐罐、銹跡斑斑的桌子和塞滿蠟燭的空香檳瓶。頭頂上方的鳥籠中裝著一具人體骨骼,細長瘦弱的雙腿懸掛于空,裁縫的人體造型以花盆做頭。

This avant-garde display is the work of island gardener ‘Twig’, Lee Campbell explained, as we sat in the forest-green, corrugated-tin shed she shares with elderly lurcher Holly. Campbell, a landscape painter from New Zealand, has rented the studio for 17 years, but lives “on the mainland”.

紐約時報中英文網 http://www.gwbyzx.live

李·坎貝爾(Lee Campbell)解釋說,這個前衛的擺設是島上園丁的作品。當時,我們正坐在用深綠色瓦楞鐵皮搭建的棚屋里,她與老獵狗霍利(Holly)相依為命。坎貝爾來自新西蘭,是一名風景畫家,在這個島上租工作室17年了,但住在"大陸"。

“Now and then a bunch of old hippies come staggering over, asking if the hotel is still here,” she said. “They’re looking for the party.”

"有時會有老嬉皮士搖搖晃晃來這里,詢問旅館還在不在,"她說。"他們想尋找派對。"

For Campbell, the island’s appeal is a tranquil space to paint. She also likes walking back over the bridge each afternoon, to “dry land”.

對于坎貝爾來說,島上的魅力在于安靜的繪畫空間。她還喜歡每天下午步行過橋,返回"陸地"。

For those who live, work or accidentally visit here, Eel Pie is endlessly enthralling.

Eel Pie島對生活、工作或意外來訪的人具有無窮無盡的吸引力。

Like many of the other eyots that loop along the Thames like the eyes of needles, it’s a time capsule of land, memories and tall tales.

像其他的小島一樣,Eel Pie島被泰晤士河環繞,形狀如同針眼。它與時空膠囊一般無二,承載著這片土地流傳的長久記憶和荒誕傳聞。

Before ship-shape Ravens Ait became a luxury wedding venue, a dozen squatters took over for several months in 2009, claiming it should be common land. They argued that it was on this tiny islet that King John signed documents leading to the ratification of the Magna Carta. (It was actually the Treaty of Kingston, a 1217 peace treaty with France, that was signed here.)

渡鴉島(Ravens Ait)形如船只,在演變成豪華婚禮場地之前,十幾個擅自占地者在2009年接管了幾個月,聲稱這里應該是公共用地。他們爭辯說,約翰國王正是在這個小島上,簽署了批準"大憲章"的文件。(實際上,在這里簽訂的是1217年與法國達成和平的金斯敦條約,Treaty of Kingston)

Further west, as the river flows through Berkshire, the boldly named Magna Carta Island also contends to be where the king sealed the charter. It’s yet to be proven.

再往西,河水流經伯克郡(Berkshire),這里的大憲章島(Magna Carta Island)取名大膽,也聲稱國王是在這里簽署了大憲章。然而真相還有待證明。

Oliver’s Island, near Kew, is named after claims that Oliver Cromwell took refuge here and built a tunnel connecting the eyot to the Bull’s Head pub on the opposite bank. The story has been widely discredited (and no amount of digging has unearthed the tunnel).

位于邱園(Kew)附近的奧利弗島(Oliver's Island)以奧利弗·克倫威爾(Oliver Cromwell)命名,據說他曾來此避難,建造了一條連接該島和對岸牛頭酒吧(Bull's Head)的隧道。這一說法已經廣受質疑(不管怎么挖,也無法找到隧道)。

On nearby Taggs Island, a dusty path loops past gardens rambling with roses, lavender and bamboo canes. A sun-dappled footbridge spans the central lagoon, circled by floating homes. Boatbuilder Thomas George Tagg leased the island in the 1850s, crafting a reputation for vessels painted in bold colours and adorned with balustrades, elaborate carvings and striped awnings. Artists, writers and those with money to spare flocked to the island.

附近的塔格斯島(Taggs Island)上有一條塵土飛揚的小路環繞經過種滿玫瑰、薰衣草和竹子的花園。陽光斑駁的人行步橋跨過河水,水上房屋環繞四周。造船商托馬斯·喬治·塔格(Thomas George Tagg)在1850年代租用了這座島嶼,其所造船只用色大膽,裝飾著欄桿、精美雕刻和條紋遮蓬,一時名聲大噪。藝術家、作家和有錢人紛紛涌入島上。

Fred Westcott watched with envy. Busking near Hampton Court lock, he dreamed of living by the teardrop-shaped island.

弗雷德·威斯克(Fred Westcott)的眼中滿是羨慕。在漢普頓宮(Hampton Court)的門前賣藝之時,他曾夢想著有朝一日能在這個淚滴狀的小島上安居樂業。

Changing his surname to Karno, he launched a circus with a troupe of then-unknown performers including Charlie Chaplin and Max Miller, and invented the custard-pie-in-face gag. Fortune made, he moved to Taggs in 1903, ensuring his was the biggest and most luxurious boat circling the land.

紐約時報中英文網 www.gwbyzx.live

后來,他改姓卡爾諾(Karno),與查理·卓別林(Charlie Chaplin)和馬克斯·米勒(Max Miller)等一群當時名不見經傳的演員成立了一個馬戲團,并發明了蛋奶餡餅擲臉的笑話。賺到錢之后,他于1903年搬到了塔格斯島,擁有的船只在這一帶最大、最豪華。

The richly-textured tapestry of history and culture on these 180 isles, of which 30 are inhabited, deserves to be preserved and shared. Michele Whitby, who rents a houseboat moored to Eel Pie Island, is working on doing just that.

泰晤士河中有180個小島,其中30個有人居住,泰晤士河中島的歷史和文化理應保護與傳承。在Eel Pie島租住的船屋居住的米歇爾·惠特比(Michele Whitby)做的就是這件事。

Whitby has been gathering oral histories from the island’s residents for her Eel Pie Museum, set to open in Twickenham by early 2018.

惠特比一直在收集島上居民的口述歷史,她創辦的的Eel Pie博物館(Eel Pie Museum)將于2018年初在特威克納姆對外開放。

“The first buildings were beach huts,” she said. “There are stories of rich businessmen spending weekends there with their mistresses.”

"最初的建筑物是一些海灘小屋。"她說。"據說有些富商周末會來這里與情婦們尋歡作樂。"

For Eel Pie residents, who are aged 17 to 70, the common thread that binds them is an "adventurous spirit".

對Eel Pie島上的17歲至70歲的居民來說,正是"冒險精神"將他們僅僅聯系在一起。

“This life isn’t for everyone. Sometimes you have to wade through water to get home because the tide has risen across the bottom of the bridge,” Whitby said. “But our world is the real world. People either leave within a year, or leave in a wooden box.”

"這里的生活并不適合每一個人。有時河水漲過橋面,必須涉水回家,"惠特比說。"但是我們的世界活得實實在在。大家要么不到一年就離開,要么至死才離開小島。"

Baylis won’t leave any other way. At 80, the bachelor still has a spring in his shuffle. His house and studio, The Haven, is tucked down a dusty track off the main path. Entering is like diving into Mary Poppins’ carpet bag.

貝利斯無論如何都不會離開。這個80歲高齡的單身漢在這場人生牌局中依然活得風生水起。他的避風港既是住房又是工作室,隱匿在塵土飛揚的主干道分支小路上。一進門就像鉆進了仙女瑪莉(Mary Poppins)的旅行包。

I was greeted by a tiny, white, stuffed cat, curled in permanent sleep on a drawing board. Beyond were higgledy-piggledy racks of tools, plastic trays overflowing with nuts and bolts and steering wheels hooked to the wall. Baylis invented the wind-up radio, and a dozen early models were dotted around the workshop.

只見一只毛茸茸的白色小貓正蜷縮在繪圖板上沉沉地睡著。往上看,雜亂無章地擺放著一些工具架子,塑料托盤上盛滿了螺母和螺栓,墻上掛著舵輪。貝利斯發明了發條收音機,十幾個早期模型仍零星點綴在工作室周圍。

“I built the house of my dreams,” he said, escorting me past his swimming pool to his living area. The walls were a collage of photos – a gaggle of girlfriends, posters of Audrey Hepburn (Baylis’ all-time favourite actress)  and a picture of Nelson Mandela with the inventor, proudly holding the radio that helped educate people about the spread of HIV and Aids in Africa. The pair became “good pals,” Baylis told me.

"這就是我夢寐以求的房子,"他一邊說著,一邊引我經過游泳池前往客廳。墻上貼滿了照片,有一群嘻嘻哈哈的姑娘們、奧黛麗·赫本(Audrey Hepburn)的海報(貝利斯一直以來最喜歡的女演員),還有他與納爾遜·曼德拉的合照。正是貝里斯發明的發條收音機,幫助教育了非洲人民了解艾滋病和艾滋病毒的傳播。貝利斯告訴我,他和曼德拉后來成了"好朋友"。

Bookshelves buckled under encyclopedias. A wine rack made with leftover piping was built into the wall. Smudged glass doors led out to the turfed terrace overlooking the river. Upstairs, Baylis sleeps surrounded by more books and under a huge poster of Audrey.

百科全書把書架都壓彎了。由多余管道制成的酒架固定在墻上。玻璃門污跡斑斑,通往鋪設草皮的露臺,可以俯視河流。樓上是貝利斯的床鋪,四周放滿了書籍,上面還掛了一張奧黛麗的巨型海報。

Trevor’s CV (he gave me a copy) reads like the achievements of an entire alumni. There’s his OBE in recognition of his inventions; his career as a stunt double for Peter Cook and Dudley Moore; the fact he swam for the British National team when he was 15.

特雷弗給了我一份他的簡歷,簡歷讀來就像所有校友的成就的總集合。因為發明被授予大英帝國勛章(OBE),做彼得·庫克(Peter Cook)和達德利·摩爾(Dudley Moore)的特技替身,15歲時為英國國家游泳隊效力。

He even built a car, designed and cobbled together by hand, despite the island having no roads.

雖然島上沒有公路,他甚至通過手工設計制作,造了一輛汽車。

“She has about 5m on the clock,” Baylis chuckled, sweeping a hand towards the lipstick-red motor that’s permanently parked on his lower terrace.

"這輛車只跑了5米里程,"貝利斯咯咯地笑了起來,用手指了指唇膏般紅色的汽車,一如既往地停在底下的露臺上。

Blondie, a Hokkaido dog, lolled by the counter as Baylis brewed tea in his tiny kitchen. Back on the terrace, we listened to one of his wind-up radios.

布隆迪(Blondie)是一只北海道犬,貝利斯在他狹小的廚房里泡茶時,它懶洋洋地躺在柜臺旁邊。返回露臺之后,我們聽了聽他發明的發條收音機。

On the opposite bank, a jogger appeared intermittently through the trees. A lone kayaker paddled by. Occasionally, large tourist boats pass by and guides point Baylis out as a local attraction.

河對岸,有個慢跑者時不時在林間穿行,若隱若現。河中有只皮劃艇,形單影只,飄然而過。偶爾會有大型游船經過這里,導游會指一指貝利斯,就像他也是當地的旅游景點。

A raven squawked above our heads, hopping from side to side on a branch. “There’s my neighbour,” Baylis joked. Reclining and puffing on his pipe, he heaved a contented sigh.

一只烏鴉一邊在我們頭頂嚎叫,一邊在樹枝上跳來跳去。"瞧,這便是我的鄰居,"貝利斯開玩笑說。他斜躺抽著煙斗,長長地舒了一口氣,甚是滿足。

“I’ve been a lucky guy,” he said, eyes crinkling in a smile. “What more could I want?”

"我真是一個幸運的家伙啊,"他瞇起眼睛笑著說。"還有什么好奢望的呢?"

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